🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.