Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.